An Azeri Wedding

Most of the time, I realise how lucky I am to do this job and to see what I see as I travel. However, just once in a while I strike it really rich.

Just such a day was 15th June, a holiday in Azerbaijan, being its Day of National Salvation. It is an auspicious day to get married and, I am told, many people close to Government choose that day for their children’s marriage.

A couple of days ago I was told that I had had an invitation to attend a wedding reception-strange, but why not?- and so after a fascinating few hours’ sightseeing we arrived, in what passed for this consultant’s best clothes, at the place where the reception took place.

I could immediately see why it was OK for me to get an invitation. The room was absolutely vast and we were seated on table 40. As most tables sat about 20 each you begin to get the picture. There seemed to be more waiters than we usually have guests at weddings. There was full video, with two roving cameramen and-unbelievably- a boom carrying a high level camera. A 12 piece band added to the festivities.

The food was amazing. Salads and cold meats were on the table and every so often a waiter would come and add a tiny new course to your plate-I lost count after 15. Everything was washed down with whatever the guest wanted; I was drinking red wine but my fellow guests were drinking Cognac. Absolutely no expense spared.

And then the music started, deafening and hypnotic and the local dancing got going. I can’t begin to do it justice, but the nearest I can describe it is Greek dancing, with arms held up at shoulder level, often with men dancing together and ladies dancing in another group.

After every dance somebody got up and made a speech in praise of the bride and groom (seated on thrones on a dais by themselves at the head of the room by the way). One spectacular speech was by the American Ambassador, who delivered it in what I was told was perfect Azeri, and then it was her honour to lead the next dance, which she did with great panache. I’m beginning to have to change my ideas on the delivery of American Foreign Policy! The United Nations Ambassador and the local MP was also there but, as we were a bit late, we missed the Prime Minister-after all this is a big day and he had a lot of weddings to attend.

We met the bride’s father who, inexplicably, promoted us from table 40 to table 36, but we finally left before we could get further promotion; I’m afraid after a very long weekend of work and play my liver could take no more.

I was later told that, because it was a wedding for the rich and powerful it was all rather restrained. Restrained!! Rafig said that next week a nephew of his was getting married and it would be a simple affair. Now that would be real fun!